Recently, I was taken to task by a big fan (okay, okay, it was my mother) for reusing the same adjectives in every review.  Look, ma; there are only so many ways to say "crunchy" without needing to look the synonym up in a thesaurus.  Should I describe the taco shells as being "friable"?  I think I'll keep using the same descriptions.-- John.

1200 Country Club Rd
Santa Teresa, NM, 88008
(505) 589-2071
I Ate:  2.75 lb T-bone steak, calamari, garden salad
Price:  ~$31 + tax/tip

(Five stars at its best; four-and-a-half at its worst)

Take Interstate-10 to Exit 11, Mesa Drive, and go South.  Mesa changes into Country Club Rd.  Continue on, through a residential area, and you'll soon find yourself over the border into New Mexico.  A few blocks further on the right and you'll find a steakhouse called Billy Crews' Dining Room.


I arrived late one evening and was quickly seated.  The waiter seemed slightly miffed I wasn't ordering wine; I suppose I can understand, given the wine racks surrounding the dining room, and the special temperature controlled storage room off to the side.  I suppose I could've ordered a Dom Perignon of a very good year, and they wouldn't have blinked.  Unfortunately, I don't much like wine.  Dr. Pepper for me instead.


I ordered appetizer and salad, but when it came to steak, they sold by the pound.  I was invited up to the counter, where they'd cut off a chunk of cow, any size I wanted.  I asked for a 2-1/2 lb. slab.

The salad came fairly quickly, and I dug in.  Ummm...  Genuine bleu cheese in the bleu cheese dressing, something you don't see very often.  The lettuce was a bit limp, but still quite good.  No bread, I'm afraid; the waiter deposited a basket filled with prepackaged crackers.  I must admit, though, I was quite fond of the multigrain crackers...

The calamari came next, and let me say it was worthy of an Italian restaurant.  Big rings of squid, fried, with a wonderful tomato-sauce dip.  I greatly enjoyed it, wolfed it down -- then had to sit back and wait for my monstrous steak to make its appearance.

They must've sawn off a bit more than I'd asked for, because after a long grilling, a truly enormous hunk of beef was placed in front of me.  The waiter asked if I wanted any A-1; I stared at him in horror.  (Just because I drink Dr. Pepper doesn't mean I'm TOTALLY uncivilized!)  The steak had been beaten until it surrendered, tender and grilled au jus.  After the salad and squid, I wasn't sure I could handle it; but good meat doesn't fill you up, and I managed.

I must conclude that, if you want a really good steak, a really BIG steak, or both, go to Billy Crews' Dining room.  One of these days I'll have to go there and get myself a 4-pounder; starve myself all day to prepare for the task.


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