Some of the best stories are tragedies; Romeo and Juliet, Oedipus Rex, Linda Tripp...  A happy ending isn't necessary for a good read.  This week's review is a tragedy. -- John.

130 Shadow Mountain Rd
El Paso, TX  79912
Steak and Seafood
I Ate:  The combo platter, clam chowder, fried catfish
Price:  ~$23.50 + tax/tip

(Five stars at its best; four-and-a-half at its worst)

Take the Sunland Park Drive exit from Interstate 10, and head north; after passing Mesa, it's changes into Shadow Mountain Road.  Shortly after, you'll find Pelican's Steak and Seafood Restaurant on the right-hand side.


I was meandering around town, looking for an interesting spot to dine, when I passed Pelican's and decided to make a U-turn.  The restaurant seemed popular, with plenty of cars parked outside, and I was getting rather famished, so in I went.

Service was a bit slow, the overworked waitress finally got to me, brought a drink, and took my order.  First to arrive was the appetizer, surprisingly, beating the soup and salad.  A platter, piled high with fried mozzarella sticks, zucchini and mushrooms, and a selection of three sauces.  None of this was flash frozen, folks; it was all fresh.  And delicious.  And thought provoking...  With servings like this, I might not make it to the main course.  I set half of it aside.

A few minutes later, the soup and salad were brought simultaneously.  I started with the soup, not wanting it to chill.  WOW.  A wonderful clam chowder, chock full of minced mollusk and vegetable, in a creamy base.  I spooned it up, every drop.  The salad was interestingly segregated, with carrots, cauliflower and broccoli lining the borders, and a leek laid over the top.  I'd requested no tomato or cucumber, or I'm certain they'd've been present.  The bleu cheese dressing was a fun surprise, containing real chunks of bleu cheese.

Picking at the appetizer platter, I didn't have to wait too long for the main course, and my fears were realized; the enormous portion of thick, fried catfish (the evening special) was too much for me to finish.  It wasn't overcooked, and flaked apart with a fork; very tasty.  I ate half, and half of the rice pilaf I ordered with the dish, and consigned the rest to a doggie bag.


Alas, as I began to move unconsumed edibles into the white styrofoam container, the remainder of that delicious catfish rolled off my plate, over the rim of the container, and onto the floor.  The gods had seen my hubris for over-ordering, and handed down punishment.  Ahh, woe is me; a true tragedy.

Seriously now, aside from the minor problem of not having enough help, Pelican's is a great place to find some excellent food.  Even the preliminary dishes were all excellent, and I wouldn't've expected fish this good so far inland.  Maybe you can try their steak, but when I return to Pelican's, I'll be ordering seafood.


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