Welcome to the premier article of El Paso Dining!  In this column, I will be presenting you with critiques of the restaurants in and about El Paso; from the well-known eateries, down to the corner cafes.  Please forgive me if I give your favorite dining establishment a mixed review; I'm planning to give them ALL mixed reviews, since people's tastes vary.  So, on with the show! -- John.

122 Sunland Park Drive
El Paso, TX, 79922
(915) 581-3371
Specializes mainly in barbecue
I Ate: The Homestyle dinner (all-you-can-eat); cheesecake for dessert
Price: ~$20 + tax/tip

(Five stars at its best; four at its worst)

The State Line is a venerable old restaurant, the entrance of which is right on the border between Texas and New Mexico.  They are well-known for their barbecued beef and steak.


I ordered the Homestyle Dinner, and was presented with a plate of beef brisket, sausage, and a beef rib, along with a few side dishes.  The barbecue sauce was tangy, yet not heavy enough to disguise the taste and texture of the excellent quality meats.  The friendly waiter was kind enough to supply me with some of their barbecued chicken, which also made the grade.  I'm afraid I neglected to sample the babyback pork ribs, but I had enough on my plate (pardon the pun).

The dessert, a large slice of rich cheesecake, was well-presented.  The presentation didn't last long, though; I'm afraid it tasted much too good to remain artwork.


Barbecue is traditionally a lower-class cuisine, with cheaper meats steeped in heavy sauce to hide the defects.  I think the State Line achieved a good balance in using a lighter sauce on their prime meats, when treating them like traditional barbecue would've ruined them.  Still, to my taste, it wasn't true to its genre.

If you're looking for the gristly, fatty, dripping-off-the-bone barbecue delight, the State Line doesn't have what you seek.  If your digestive or circulatory system can't take that sort of abuse, or if you're a fan of high-grade meat, you should hop over the border for a taste.


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